EAT MAGAZINE JULY/AUGUST 2006

VICTORIA Review

Markus’ Wharfside Restaurant is a serene and unpretentious
setting for cuisine that sparkles with chef Wieland’s European
flair.
By Katherine Gibson

On a sultry Saturday evening, Bob and I headed to Markus’ Wharfside Restaurant just steps from the government dock in Sooke. This charming little dining room, voted a Best Place to Kiss in the Northwest, is housed in a post-war bungalow situated high on a bank overlooking Sooke Harbour and the glorious Olympic Mountains. Bright blue wood siding and a spacious verandah promise an unpretentious experience—a place to “set awhile” with family or good friends. Inside, nine tables dressed in white linen and china await guests. Small candles and petite glass vases of fresh flowering herbs add a delicate tone. This is a serene setting—perfect for a quiet rendezvous and a good meal. On a warm, summer evening, dinner on the patio would be divine. Chef Markus Wieland and his wife, Tatum Claypool-Wieland, have created a buzz since they opened the dining room in November 2003. Clearly, the couple have endeared themselves to the locals. We noticed several couples greeting Tatum with the spontaneous smiles and hugs usually reserved for special friends. “More than half our clientele are regulars,” said Tatum, “with visitors making up the rest.” That is good news for the young couple who saw potential in an old house, took a deep breath and forged ahead to create their own brand of culinary magic.
Chef Wieland offers a limited, but trustworthy menu of local greens
and seafood, free-range chicken and lamb. Expect generous portions of slow-cooked excellence. Several dishes sparkle with a European flair that flirts with Italian and German influences. Bob and I tussled over who would start with the risotto (served that evening with clams and fennel) and who would order the pan-seared semmelknoedel, a German dumpling made from a Wieland family recipe. Our server, who was impressively informed about the menu and cooking procedures, solved our minor altercation by offering us side plates for sharing. With glasses of Chateau Bonnet, 2004, Semillon Sauvignon Blanc in hand, we dug into dinner. The risotto was everything this Italian staple of the Piedmont and Lombardy regions should be—a creamy, firm and quiet base for the additions that express the creativity of the person behind the pot. On this evening, slices of sweet anise-flavoured fennel drifted throughout the dish that was loaded with Manila clams. I could happily have made a meal of the risotto and might do on my next visit, as it is also served as a main course. Bob’s semmelknoedel was also right on the mark. This humble German dumpling consists of crispy bacon, sage and parsley mixed into a batter of bread, milk and eggs bathed in boiling water and then seared. When served over a bed of wild mushrooms and greens, it was a delight to the eye and fulfilled its promise of a hearty and highly flavourful starter. Others include a baked goat cheese salad, seafood salad and Tuscan seafood soup. As with the risotto, the soup comes in starter and main course servings, which is a good thing, as Bob insisted on the soup as well. We could have easily made a satisfying meal of a couple of appetizers each. A tempting thought for those with smaller appetites.
After a pause to watch the setting sun toss ribbons of pink across the
sky, we took forks and knives in hand and got down to business. Halibut, clams, scallops and prawns swam in Bob’s Tuscan seafood soup made from a stock of roasted prawn shells that had been simmered for 36 hours. Tomato, fennel, a hint of tarragon rounded out the soup base. I chose seared scallops accompanied by a cucumber and tomato salsa. Small Yukon gold potatoes finished the plate. Although seafood is in the spotlight at the Wharfside, the menu also includes chicken roasted with rosemary and lemon, and seared lamb sirloin with a peppered balsamic glaze. Vegetarians get the nod with a panseared polenta topped with bocconcini cheese on ratatouille vegetables. Dessert was an easy decision. Rather than choose between chocolate mousse, panna cotta or tiramisu, we tried all three in small portions. The custard-like panna cotta, (“cooked cream” in Italian), was silky-smooth.
Wieland foregoes the traditional accompaniment of berries for a caramel sauce. The chocolate mousse was decadently delicious as was the slice of tiramisù.
After Silk Road tea and a quick tour of the dock, we set off for home. During the forty-minute drive we agreed that the Wielands have created a casual, yet intimate ambience for comfortable, ncomplicated dining. Chef maintains a leisurely pace in keeping with the Slow Food philosophy. Although the dining room was full the night of our visit, we never felt neglected or rushed.
“I never thought we’d be doing this here,” said Tatum. “But I love this community and everyone has been so supportive.” With Markus’
Wharfside Restaurant joining Point No Point and Sooke Harbour House, there are now three good reasons to dine and dally in Sooke.
Markus’ Wharfside Restaurant

Starters $9-$12; entrées $24-$30,
1831 Maple Ave., South, Sooke, BC
Reservations: 250-642-3596,
www.markuswharfsiderestaurant.com
Sooke’s Secret